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Many thanks to
BlackLion for introducing me to the uses of a Heat Gun when using
Polymer Clay.
You can see his work at his website
Pen2Pixel
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All images ©
glen southern2003
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SCULPEY WAR TROLL
Using a heat gun to add
detail
1. The
theory
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Super Sculpey becomes hard when baked. Big news hey! Ok, so
what if you want to add a lot of detail to a specific area of your
model and as you work you destroy the detail you have created in
earlier modeling session?
An example might be a head. To
create a detailed head I create a couple of eyes and a few teeth
then go to my oven and bake them off. 20 minutes later I would take
the recently baked pieces and set them aside for cooling and a
further 15 minutes later start adding them to the model. I could
then use more Super Sculpey to model detail around the hard parts
with effecting their shape. Useful in a hundred ways.
But, what
happens if you need to do something like layering hair or fur
on a figure? The process gets a little more difficult if you
need to start putting the whole figure in the oven just to
bake off specific parts.
Enter the Heat Gun.
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2. The War
Troll |
I wanted to
model a full figure and decided to create a War Troll with heavy
influence from the War Hammer universe. I started with a wooden base
and built a wire and tin foil armature very much in the same way as
my Minotaur was created.
I started this
figure without reference material and just a rough idea of the
stance. I wanted him to be a stooped Troll that was preparing to do
battle. I decided that he would have Dreadlocks and I knew that this
would give me the chance to try out the new Heat Gun that I had
purchased for this very project.
The Armature
came together very quickly and it wasn't log before I was layering
on sheets of Super Sculpey to give him a thin skin layer. I modeled
a stone headed club, a sheild, some arrows and a thin loin cloth. I
put a base layer of hair onto the the head and down his back. I
added a head at his waist, some leather belt strips and some shin
armour. I pre-baked some eyes, tusks and teeth. claws and finger
nail claws
I did use the
Heat Gun on a few of the areas shown above but for the purposes of
this tutorial I will take you through the process from this stage. I
took the model in its current state (shown above) and baked it in a
standard, home oven for 20 minutes at 140 degrees. |
The images
below show the War Troll Model after the first bake
off.. |
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3. The Heat Gun for
Hair |
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1. Using
my tiny hand drill (see above) I made a small hole in the top
of the head.
2. I cut a length of galzanized wire and
inserted it into the hole. I then bent the wire to the
position that I wanted the first Dread lock to hang.
3.
Taking a small amount of Super Sculpy I started to add long,
thin strips to the wire, winding them around to form a hair
like strand. |
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4. Once
the bulk of the Dreadlock was in place I took a small piece of
wire and used it to scrape the Sculpey into the tousled look
of a Dreadlock.
I made sure that the top end of the
Dreadlock was smoothed into the already baked hair strands on
the top of the head. I find that this helps give stability to
add-ons-parts and improves the overall structure of the model
once baked. |
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5. Once
happy with the first Dreadlock I took to the Heat Gun. Using
the Gun I started to heat up the Sculpey that formed the
Dreadlock.
TIP: BEWARE! It
is every so easy to scorch the model at this stage. Keep the
Heat Gun moving all the time. Pass it back and forth along the
area without remaining still at any one point.
Very quickly you will find that the Sculpey has
hardened in the heated areas. |
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6. I
carried on adding Dreadlocks to the model and heating them up
to harden them as I went along. The main advantage in using
this method is that you won't mess up areas of sculpey
underneath the new area. It makes the process a great deal
quicker and really does allow you to add more fine detail to
your models.
I carried on and added lots more detail in
this way including a battle axe, lots of rope, belt buckles
etc. |
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4. The finished
Troll |
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